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Stateless

19 Monday Jul 2021

Posted by Kate Brooks in All

≈ Leave a comment

From the first time I travelled overseas, almost 25 years ago now, I believed that my Australian passport meant something. I was ten and bursting with grown-up pride to have the blue document with the crest in my bag. I’ve spent most of my adult life out of the country, studying, travelling, working, living. And up to 18 months ago it never occurred to me that in doing so I was somehow invalidating my birth right. On the contrary, DFAT was always there to tell you what to do if you needed help. When I travelled through Africa a decade ago, I knew where our embassies were, and where they weren’t, I was told the Canadians, or the British, would be there if I needed it. To be an Australian was to be privileged and safe. It was nice to have that warm sense of security.

At uni I learned that Australia was the only western democracy without a human rights declaration. Not to worry, in theory there are implied rights for citizens in the constitution. Plus, international law stipulates that nationals have a right to return. Given Australia’s record with international law in general, that shouldn’t have been any reassurance.

On a forum several weeks ago, I was called entitled for wanting to come home and see my family. You’re damn straight I’m entitled. That’s literally what that passport is supposed to give you, entitlements. Otherwise, what is the bloody point? Citizenship is not only a privilege, it is a legal status, and it comes with rights, the most basic of which is a right to return.

Can you imagine if the rest of the world behaved as Australia has? If countries with populations in the tens or hundreds of millions suddenly decided to refuse their citizens abroad re-entry unless they could pay copious amounts of money to get in? If they were left to indefinitely depend on the charity of strangers in foreign lands for food and a roof over their head? If everyone behaved as selfishly and illegally as the Australian government, there would be chaos.

For me, the saddest part of this is I suspect that if other governments tried, their citizens would be in uproar for their fellow compatriots. Decades of rhetoric around ‘locking out’ threats has made the Australian public insular and cruel. I have always been an advocate for more humane immigration policies, always been ashamed by how Australia treated refugees, but even I never thought we’d abandon our own. How a government treats it’s least advantaged should concern everyone, because it is indicative of what they will do to you if they think they can get away with it.

Other ‘ideas’ I’ve come across are that certain Australians may be more deserving to come home than others. The keyboard warriors love to question whether someone is a ‘real’ citizen. I can’t say for certain what they mean, but I strongly suspect it has to do with the colour of people’s skin or how their voice sounds. It may make people (racists) feel better to tell themselves that they are ‘more Australian’ than others, but that doesn’t make it true. The hatred and vitriol that has been spat towards dual citizens or people of mixed heritage is appalling. Let me say it again, a citizen is a citizen. They have the exact same legal rights and status whether they were born in India, descended from the convicts, are Indigenous Australians, or third generation immigrants. Whether they hold a second or third passport or have never left the country. You can repeat as many times as you want this idea that there are ‘true aussies’, but it doesn’t make it fact. The only people who could arguably claim an increased right to anything are indigenous persons, and funnily enough I haven’t seen any of them advocating for abandoning fellow nationals.

By some stroke of amazing timing I became a naturalised French citizen in 2019, and it is somewhat of a relief to now carry a passport for a country that I know will protect me. But I am first and foremost and always will be, an Australian. It is the land of my birth, where I grew up, where my family is. It defines who I am as much as being a woman, partner, daughter, sister, friend. You don’t get to tell me that because I fell into an expat life years ago, because I now have ties to another country, I am no longer what I have always been.

Australians overseas keep hearing ‘you should have come home’, ‘you shouldn’t have left’, ‘you should have stayed’. First of all, we were never explicitly told to come home or risk being locked out. But you know what? The bigger issue is that someone should have told me my passport meant shit all. Australians should have been informed that unlike other nations, their government would not respect citizens rights.

When this is all over, when international travel resumes to something resembling normal, every Australian leaving the country should do it with the knowledge that if shit hits the fan, you are on your own. Never again can we allow Australians to leave for abroad with the false sense of security that if there is trouble, you will always have a place to call home.

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I love a sunburnt country, Her beauty and her terror

12 Monday Jul 2021

Posted by Kate Brooks in All

≈ 17 Comments

As I woke up two weeks ago, rolled over and checked my phone, my heart sank, and a huge rock appeared in my stomach, as once again Australia indefinitely limited arrival caps for its citizens. 

In the last 18 months my father has been diagnosed with stage 3 cancer, two elderly relatives have been taken seriously ill, my two best childhood friends have had their first babies… the list goes on and on and mine is just one of thousands. 

As an Australian living overseas for the past decade, representing the country in two international organisations, I have held tight to ties to the motherland. 2020 was the first year I did not return home. In 2018 I boarded a flight back to say goodbye to my mother after she lost a decades-long battle with illness. I feel sick with the thought that so many have been unable to make that trip, unable to give a loved one, one last hug, unable to say goodbye. Their position is far more arduous than mine. 

Despite the longing, I chose not to spend the tens of thousands required to come home. It felt wrong to be taking a place from those more desperate than me, felt sick to have to bid my way into a country that is legally obliged to protect me, felt wrong to move even if I could afford it, given the state of the world. Yet I watched aghast as businessmen and tennis players flew in and out, movie stars arrived and strolled our sun-kissed shores, Tony Abbott came and went at his leisure.  

All this while European countries sent repatriation flights around the world to bring their people home, and the country where I was living, France, declared they would never lock out citizens. With time I realised that the caps, the rules, the quarantine, none of them applied if you were rich enough, influential enough, well-connected. Scott Morrison never gave a shit about returning Aussies home in time for Christmas. The system was always designed to benefit those who could pay their way in (and out again). 

At some point we must ask ourselves, if there are Australian children sleeping on airport floors, families living in caravans off charity, people with months left to live, continuously being kicked off flights, while Zac Efron relocates to Byron for the lifestyle- what have we become?

To the Facebook ‘patriots’ raging about how we had the chance to come home, how we were warned, how we have somehow relinquished our right to citizenship because we were abroad. There was NO instruction to expats in March 2020 that they should repatriate. I do not know where this myth came from. Travelers were advised to return as some countries didn’t have the same level of healthcare. But in March 2020 I was settled in a country where I had a permanent job, a home, a partner, and a health care system that leaves Australia’s to shame. The idea that expats should have known that if they did not uproot their lives, leave jobs, say goodbye to partners then and there, or they would not be able to return home for years, was never considered. No one knew how long this would last, how insulated Australia would become, how it would fail to facilitate repatriation or quarantine for its citizens, how abominably behind it would be in its vaccination program. 

You are not more worthy an Australian than I, or thousands of others, because you happened to be there in March 2020. You are not more deserving of the rights that come with citizenship because you did not move overseas, fall in love with a foreigner, take a diplomatic role, have children, work for an NGO, buy a house, build a home… You do not have some invisible, self-congratulatory + next to the Kangaroo and Emu crest because your life circumstances were different. You are not more entitled to the protection of your country than I.

In every Australian Passport there is a message from the Governor General, “… allow the bearer, an Australian Citizen, to pass freely without let or hindrance and afford him or her every assistance and protection”. It doesn’t say ‘to pass freely if you can afford it’, ‘if you never dared to leave at the wrong time’, ‘if you know the right people in the Liberal Party.’.. Citizenship is not only a privilege, but also a right, and it comes with a contract that BOTH SIDES are supposed to fulfil.

Three months ago I booked a December ticket home, knowing I would be fully vaccinated, prepared to do some sort of quarantine, assuming by then the government would have got their shit together and Australians would be vaccinated, or there would be some sort of dedicated facilities that allowed for a humane isolation. Given that by that point the pandemic would almost be at the 2-year mark, it seemed a reasonable assumption. 

Now that looks increasingly unlikely, due to mismanagement, absolute arrogance, confounding incompetence and a complete lack of humanity. It’s possible I may go another 18 months before I set foot on home soil. That’s 3 years without hugging my dad or my brother, the possibility of never again seeing elderly relatives, not meeting my best friends’ children until they are nearly school-aged. If you think I deserve this because a decade ago I took a job overseas, than there is something fundamentally wrong with your heart and your brain.

The extent to which misplaced Australian exceptionalism has thrived during this period is perhaps one of the scariest long-term impacts the nation will be left with. In a society that was already becoming increasingly insular and sneering, this is what frightens me the most for the future of my beloved sunburnt country.

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I did not want to go back to the Jungle

14 Monday Dec 2015

Posted by Kate Brooks in All, Politics, Refugees

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

asylum, calais, EU, followtherefugees, France, human rights, humanitarianism, immigration, Jungle, middle east, openeuborders, refugees

photo 4 (1)Since I began my blog in Athens there has not been one day where I didn’t want to get out of bed. I was absolutely exhausted for those 9 days, but not once did I consider piking. On Sunday morning I did not want to go back to the Jungle. I did not want to see it, hear it, smell it or feel it. I selfishly did not want to absorb its unhappiness. It took a lot of internal self-reproach to get me into the taxi and tell the driver where I wanted to go.

It rained constantly over night and the mud is worse, more like a dirty river or one big puddle that seeps into every corner of every ‘street’. It’s impossible to stay clean. And I’ve made my peace that my boots will not see Paris again. There were also more people than yesterday. Many ‘tourists’ showed up to look at the new Banksy and take photos. And on my way in there were more cops decked out in riot gear.

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Inside my tent we use candles, as we have no generators, it is very dangerous. The camp gets set on fire all the time.

A volunteer I met organised a meeting with a British MEP scheduled to speak about opening the border. I spent a good portion of Saturday handing out fliers with her and encouraging people to show up. And they have. Everyone is packed into Cafe Kabul until it becomes clear that there is nowhere near enough room. To my great claustrophobic relief we move to a bigger venue, the only venue here really, ‘the dome’. The Daily Mail article I mentioned tried to make it out as if the Dome was a nightclub. In reality, it’s the only enclosed space that will host more than a few dozen people in the Jungle where they can meet.

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This represents the long time I spent in prison in my country. I feel like I’ve gone from one prison to another.

Art is posted on the walls inside giving refugees a chance to express themselves. And some of the quotes that are attached about freedom and living like animals make me squirm. The purpose of the meeting is for everyone to share stories and people who know what they’re talking about to talk about human rights. But it’s all a bit of a mess and ends up in a hopeful chant of ‘UK, UK, UK, UK!’ The British delegation in particular seems a bit overwhelmed, though after everyone sounds their support there are a lot of cheers and applause. It seems cruel that this has given them false hope.

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Sometimes I come here and I stand for a few minutes, imagining that this is what England looks like.

After I step outside for some air, 24 year old Ali comes over. He left Afghanistan in August. His uncle is in the Taliban and was trying to recruit him four years ago, but he managed to run away to Kabul. There he found a good job with the municipality and he proudly shows me his id card. He said he had a good life and earned a good salary, until the Taliban started strengthening again and his uncle came for him. ‘I love Afghanistan’ he tells me, ‘the mountains are so beautiful and I would go back to my good life in Kabul if I could… but the Taliban is very, very bad.’ I almost want to laugh at the persuasive tone in his voice, as if he needs to convince me that the Taliban is evil. His uncle first came looking for him last year, and his mother told him to run. He tells me that he couldn’t stay and just say no, they would find him and kill him. ‘I do not want to fight for them’ he says, ‘they do very bad things’. So he left, he travelled through Iran, Turkey, Greece and along the usual route until he ended up in the Jungle two months ago.

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Tear gas, why?

He has tried daily to get into England, one time being beaten up so badly by the police his eye socket was broken. Two weeks ago they arrested him and shipped him to a gaol in Metz, near the border with Germany. After telling the judge what he’d been through, that he wanted to get to the UK and if they were going to send him back to Afghanistan ‘could they please shoot him?’ the case was dismissed and he came back to this hell hole. Again I start listing the reasons to claim asylum in France. He shakes his head and tells me he has been through too much to start with a new culture. ‘I know English, and I have friends in UK, people who will help me, it will be quicker to start a life and work.’ While he is open to considering a new country he tells me he is too depressed and there are ‘things wrong with his brain now… I will have problems to learn’.

‘Some days’, he says, ‘I wish they would just come in and shoot us’. It’s not even fear of going back to Kabul, he just has no thirst for life. I try and wonder what that would be like, to have no fear of death, and in a weird way even welcome it. To almost be indifferent as to whether you live or die. Ali shares a minuscule blue ten with 3 other men from Afghanistan. Today it is sunken and the mud has run in. He tells me he is good with clothes and could be a tailor, but would do any kind of job. ‘I just want to work… when you can work, life is good’. What a luxury I have to be irritated at my job for not being everything I want it to be.
IMG_2395-0Throughout his story he repeatedly shrugs his shoulders and says ‘what can I do?’ and I nod dumbly and understandingly. But he repeats it when we say goodbye, and I realise it’s not a rhetorical question. ‘What would you do?’ he asks, pleading for some kind of guidance or advice. I don’t know what to tell him. I can’t tell him his situation is hopeless or that he’s done anything wrong. And I can’t judge any one decision he’s made. ‘I would have left as well…’ I say, ‘but I wouldn’t stay here’. He nods sadly, ‘I just didn’t want to fight for the Taliban’ he says again before he walks away.

Another man who’s been listening to our conversation walks over. His English is much better, almost unaccented, and he clearly wants to talk. ‘Why do they not want us?’ Again I’m hoping this is a rhetorical question, but again he seems to want an answer. I try to explain why people are nervous and the fears people have about differences and the chance of terrorism. I try to be very delicate in how I pick my words but the pain on his face tells me I’ve clearly failed. ‘There is no Daesh here’ he says. Though I couldn’t say for sure I would tend to agree, purely because I cannot imagine anyone voluntarily choosing to live in the jungle. He then urges me to look up some survey online that shows people from Afghanistan are the most peaceful in Europe. I promise to type that into google, though I’m doubtful about the existence of such a study.

photo 2 (1)He asks where I’m from, expresses amazement that I have come so far, and I do the usual living in Paris spiel. Recognition flashes over his face and he asks if I was ok when the attacks happened last month. I don’t know why after all the people I’ve met his concern still takes me aback, but it does. I assure him everyone I know was ok. He nods his head, ‘that is good…. but what happens in Paris, it happens every day in Afghanistan.’ He nods goodbye and walks away, but not before delivering the most common line I’ve heard from refugees from Eritrea to Kuwait, ‘we just want a life’.

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‘Get up Daddy, and take me to clever kids school’

04 Friday Dec 2015

Posted by Kate Brooks in All

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

asylum, australia, EU, followtherefugees, human rights, humanitarianism, immigration, middle east, openeuborders, refugees, refugeeswelcome, safepassage, syria, war

I have footage almost identical to this of my brother and I, without the request for protection from ‘strikes of fire’.

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http://www.theguardian.com/world/video/2015/dec/04/raghat-a-five-year-old-who-died-in-a-russian-airstrike-on-syria-video

This video is 1.37 long.
Watch it and tell me at what point she’s any different from your daughter/little sister/niece/ cousin/child of your friend?

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Is it somewhere in between dancing for the camera or spinning in her pink tutu?

Is it before or after kissing her baby sister or asking her dad to take her to ‘clever kids’ school?

Does the purple jumper and butterfly headband make you feel uncomfortable? Did you see the same on a child in the park the other day?

Watch it and tell me how she’s any different to what you were at 5, except that you weren’t having bombs dropped on your house.

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And then tell me how we don’t have room/ can’t afford to help children like her and her parents. While we spend 55 million sending 4 people to Cambodia.
And millions more on offshore concentration camps on remote pacific islands.

Tell me how Australia is in trouble with people struggling to afford second cars and two story house mortgages and designer shoes.

Assure me that somehow this little girl really is different and maybe her parents will threaten us and our way of life.

Tell me how it’s not our responsibility to make sure she gets an education or proper health care, or a childhood.

Or better yet, look in the mirror and tell yourself that, and decide if you like what you see looking back at you.

It doesn’t matter anyway, she’s dead now.

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We do what we can

15 Sunday Nov 2015

Posted by Kate Brooks in All, Politics, Refugees

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

asylum, EU, followtherefugees, FYROM, human rights, humanitarianism, immigration, macedonia, middle east, openeuborders, refugees, refugeeswelcome, safepassage, serbia, syria, war

IMG_2319-1I was warned that getting into the Macedonian camps would be impossible, but I managed to walk into Tabanovste with no problems. A dirty train has just pulled up and people empty off it for the usual routine of collecting clothes and food before they walk along the tracks to cross. Eventually, despite my best efforts, some genius figures out that I am not a real refugee and I’m quickly ushered out. The camp director is not impressed that I have infiltrated his kingdom. They are terrified of journalists getting in and don’t believe that I’m not with an organisation. Arbnor asks for my passport, and as soon as he sees the coat of arms his attitude does a complete 180, ‘Kangaroo!’. Suddenly it’s very important that we become Facebook friends because he wants to come to Australia, and it’s very hard to get in he tells me. Oh what sweet irony.

IMG_2322-0I’m offered tea and an interview. ‘I’m so sorry, I thought you were British or American.’ he chuckles, as if this explains everything. It’s not the first time that my nationality has worked in my favor like this and I take full advantage, though I’m not sure what I’m going to do when he finds me on facebook and asks for an Australian visa. The camp is calm he says because the refugees do not stay very long. FYROM has managed to implement systems to funnel people through the country as quickly as possible and refugees rarely stop. Serbia is only 500 metres away, and 3-5000 people cross here daily. Maximum capacity for overnight is 1000, though it is very difficult to imagine that many people in this space and in reality they end up sleeping outside in the dirt. Arbnor seems proud of his camp, as if it is a competition with others to see who can provide the best service. But he admits that if something happens and people were to stay longer, they would be in trouble.

Everything is fine as long as the borders stay open and people can move on. It is easy to see how quickly this could turn into a full sale disaster if that changes though; basic infrastructure is lacking, and the only thing that allows the system to do anything resembling work is the constant onward movement. Many commentators have predicted that border closures further north could have catastrophic effects on the region which already suffers from its own ethnic and religious tensions.

IMG_2304The taxi drivers of Macedonia seem like a bit of a mafia, and it’s amazing how much money is being made. Refugees have injected millions into the economy through transport, small goods, and even accommodation for the wealthier ones. Crossing the state is at least 100 euro per car, and drivers make the trip three times a day, in a country where the average income is not much more than 300Eu a month. All the drivers I interact with are incredibly sympathetic. ‘We do what we can’ I see them buy water and coffee for the refugees. They hide children in their cars from the police and get angry when discussing how the authorities are corrupt and take money from these poor people. As Vladmir who drove me into Skopje and used to serve In the Yugoslav army points out, Europe’s last refuge crisis was a result of war in the Balkans, and people genuinely seem to want to help. ‘You are 18, 19, still really a child, and you wake up and your life is gone… things you can see, you can never unsee.’ They set up their phones as hot spots so the refugees can contact home, and they provide hugely important information on where they are going and what to expect that I haven’t seen given anywhere else so far. Perhaps most significantly, they treat the refugees as equals and talk to them about their families and their stories. There is no class structure in these cars.

Until June this year Macedonian law actually imprisoned taxis for taking irregular entrants to the Serbian border. Several are currently serving gaol terms for this offence. I hear one story of a driver who picked up a German girl and her black boyfriend, and felt sick about it but asked to see their papers. Vladmir looks ashamed to be telling me this, but says he couldn’t risk a gaol sentence and felt he didn’t have any choice. Understandably the couple were furious and walked away.

He encourages one group to seek asylum in Macedonia. Proving that a huge problem in this situation is a lack of communication, the refugees reveal that they don’t know about procedures here and are heading to countries where they believe they will get papers easily. They are also concerned with being in large countries where there are Arab-speaking communities. A fact that would have the far right screaming with cries of ghetto, it is really just a desire to feel a part of a community. To speak your mother tongue, to laugh and talk with those who share your history. It is no different from Chinatown or Little Italy. It is no different from me being drawn to an Aussie in Paris. None of them want to accept charity. When those who are used to money find out how much people in Macedonia earn they are quickly turned off, and encourage the taxi driver to come with them to Germany.

IMG_2327-0It is true that a small number of these people are not only running from bombs, one group crossed through the other day from Puerto Rico, another from the Dominican Republic, which seems amazing to me because surely there is an easier way to get to Europe from the Americas than via Greece by Turkish smugglers. My Yugoslav army friend says that there are those taking advantage of the situation. He doesn’t hold it against them though, and seems very wise in his comments that it is human nature to always search for a better life. As long as the refuges keep moving and injecting millions into the FYROM economy I really don’t think that anyone here minds. However, I am given the distinct impression though that benevolence would quickly disappear if all these people stopped moving and decided to settle in Skopje.

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That kill that and that kill that and they kill me

13 Friday Nov 2015

Posted by Kate Brooks in All, Politics, Refugees, Travel

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

asylum, discrimination, EU, followtherefugees, FYROM, greece, human rights, humanitarianism, immigration, macedonia, middle east, openeuborders, poverty, refugees, refugeesgr, refugeeswelcome, safepassage, syria, war

IMG_2291Last night under the cloak of my Medecine du Monde contingent I visited the Idomeni camp on the Greek-FYROM border. It’s purely a transit camp, and on any given day 10 000 people pass through. The camp is confronting in its sadness and its normalcy. The doctors tent has a waiting room that short of a few copies of Women’s Weekly could be the same as any other medical centre. People sit in line to see the medic, parents try to calm their crying kids and control the naughty ones, and everyone looks bored and restless. Outside there is a group of teenage boys seeing who can clear a railing the most easily by leap frogging. One doesn’t make it and is teased mercilessly. People are trying to connect to the wifi and find somewhere to charge their phones. Other than the overarching sense of waiting and expectation, other than the dirt and the tents and the smell, this could be anywhere. Every now and then a volunteer yells out ‘Farsi and English!’ or ‘Urdu!’ and without fail someone puts up their hand and comes forward to translate.

IMG_2294The only thing that really makes this scene different is the sense of anxiety and nervousness about when it will be their turn to cross. Groups arrive in large buses and are given a ticket, and when their number is called they are allowed to walk into FYROM. The timing depends on the authorities at the other side letting them through. Every 5 mins someone asks me what number they are up to, people are frantic they will miss their turn and be stuck. The really bizarre thing is that there’s no check or control on the numbers, and yet nobody pushes in. Everyone is waiting their turn. The refugees are anxious and frustrated, but incredibly polite; every time I tell them that I don’t know and they just have to wait they thank me profusely.

IMG_2301UNHCR is trying desperately to make sure groups stick together. A problem has been families becoming separated and it is easy to see why. The camp is dark and there are hundreds of people everywhere. People are curled up in corners and fall asleep in the dirt. I chat to a logistics officer from MSF, Antonis, who is very proud with how much his English has improved in the past month since he started working at the camp. Like all of Greece he has family in Melbourne and is excited that I’m Australian. He tells me how his grandparents were refugees and we have to help these people. The kindness in his voice when he responds to the same questions over and over again shows much more patience then I could muster. I think of the video footage of Australian staff at detention centres that was leaked and I cringe. Maybe part of our problem is that we’ve always just had it so good people really believe hardship is not being able to afford a second car. Australians can say things like send them back and ‘stop the boats’ while Antonis can say ‘we know what they have seen’.

Fatima and Ahmoud are a young Kurdish couple who left Syria a month ago. When I ask if they were afraid of the government or ISIS or the rebels Ahmoud waves his hand dismissively and says ‘that kill that and that kill that and they kill me’. So many threats exist that discussing who is responsible has become irrelevant. They have a two month old baby, and for this reason Ahmoud paid 2300 pp to travel to Greece in a new boat. He responds to many of my questions with ‘because I have a baby’, and tells me he saved money for two years and sold his house and all their jewellery to afford the ticket. They spent 20 days in Turkey where they were harassed by the police and the army. Ahmoud tells me that he didn’t sleep for almost three weeks because he had to stay awake and guard their family to make sure his wife and daughter were safe. Eventually a smuggler picked them up from Istanbul and they drove for 9 hours in the dark to Izmir. Crying, terrified, they were put on the boat for Greece. They are heading to Sweden where Ahmoud’s older brother is. His hopes for the future are simple, he wants his daughter to be able to go to school, and he wants to have a life.

I ask them about their wedding and Ahmoud tells me that they couldn’t have a real party because of the war. He seems incredibly protective of Fatima and doesn’t let go of her the whole time we talk. He grows bashful as he explains he wanted to marry her when they first met, but it took him two years to work up the courage. Fatima doesn’t speak any English, but seems to understand this as she looks at me and rolls her eyes. Ahmoud was a chef in a French restaurant in Syria, but he is nervous about finding a job in Europe because he cannot work with pork and is worried this will stop someone from hiring him. I ask if they want to have more kids and he says yes, but only one, he is firm that two is enough. I ask if they would ever go back to Syria and his face contorts into a pained expression. He says that he wants his daughter to see his home, ‘but right now it is too empty’.

Being white the refugees think I am working there and assume that I know what is going on. One man comes up and asks for my help connecting to the wifi. He is trying to reach his family in Afghanistan to tell them that he has arrived safely with his son. This is like the blind leading the blind and all I manage to do is run his battery down while trying to find the setting on his phone. A little girl has no socks or shoes and here I am slightly more helpful in finding something for her feet. People are consistently asking for blankets and tonight for some reason there aren’t any, but they are offered extra warm clothing before they cross over. One woman from Nigeria asks me for a carton, she has three babies with her and doesn’t want to put them on the cold floor.

The scene is incredibly multicultural. I meet people from Pakistan, Bangladesh, Eritrea. My new friend Antonis tells me that yesterday they had a group from the Dominican Republic pass through. I walk with one group to the border and it is the strangest feeling. I’ve crossed many borders on foot, but this crossing, in the dark and with authorities herding everyone through like cattle, feels like something out of an apocalypse film.

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Crossing on the FYROM side of the border

Despite suggestions that I disguise myself as a refugee and sneak across the border illegally I choose not to do that, although an interesting idea I’m not quite keen on spending a night in a Macedonian jail. So this morning I went to the official crossing and then travelled back to the unofficial one on the FYROM side. My Greek taxi driver and the hotel owner were quite concerned that I did not have a visa. I assured them that I am Australian and this is no problem. They asked me if I checked and I lie and tell them of course I have, only a stupid idiot who has never travelled before wouldn’t check if they needed a visa to go into a new country. Luckily I turned out to be right, but for a few seconds I had a slight fear of being turned back to where I came from. It’s not a nice feeling even if in my situation it only would have been a minor inconvenience.

The border between Greece and the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia

The border between Greece and the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia

At the train station in Gevgelja there are buses and taxis everywhere. The refugees cross and those without lots of children take a taxi while large families wait for a train. Drivers don’t charge for young children, but this means they are reluctant to take more than one in a car load. And the police will fine them if they are caught with too many people. I manage to walk past the first line of security without being noticed and cross the tracks trying to look as not-blonde and fair as possible, but have to turn around. My choice to do things officially turned out to be a wise one because almost immediately I was racially profiled by the police and had my passport checked. Macedonia has been doing everything to stop people accessing the camps and they are not impressed with my presence. Without official accreditation, which I don’t have, or official permission from the police, which I couldn’t get, you are not supposed to be there. I explain that I am just trying to get a taxi and want to go to Serbia and they calm down once they see my passport is stamped. But my place is clear, ‘these buses are not for you, here is Syrian people, normal peoples bus is over there’.

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It’s all Greek to Me

22 Wednesday Aug 2012

Posted by Kate Brooks in All, Economics, Politics, Travel

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

athens, crisis, economics, EU, euro, greece, poverty

IMG_0565Stepping off the plane onto the tarmac at Thira Airport on the idyllic landscape of Santorini, one would be forgiven for doubting the seriousness of Greece’s current economic situation. Indeed, here the people smile, the streets are full of tourists with well lined pockets, hotels are bustling, and the price of a sandwich is exuberant even by European standards. However, the tropical paradise remains one of the few places still boasting robust commerce in this economically flailing nation. The fact that you are more likely to hear English in a variety of accents over the native tongue, is sign enough that the islands are not an accurate indication of what is going on in the country at large.

A few hours ferry ride to Athens paints an entirely different picture altogether. In a city that boasts the birth of democracy and a plethora of archaeological testaments to mankind’s wisdom, it is clear that the Greek capital is struggling to keep its head above water. Shops and businesses all over Athens have closed as a result of the crisis. Buildings remain derelict and empty, if not filled with squatters who live amongst a stench that can only be described as putrid. Unemployment is at an all time high, and Greek youth have little hope of employment within their borders after graduating from University.

So far the crisis in Greece has managed to destroy the economy and annihilate a government, as well as threaten the future of the Euro and potentially the European Union. But alongside these economic outcomes, Greece has seen an increase in youth unemployment (now at approximately 50%), crime and suicide rates. While much has been written and published about the Greek economy and the failure of politicians to find a solution, the human side of this crisis too often seems to be forgotten. When a country’s economy has failed, there are inevitably people behind it suffering grossly. This is a quick look at the plight of the Greek individual behind the statistics.

Greek youth are generally well informed, educated and worldly. More than twenty percent of the population in Greece is under 35 and financial difficulties are presenting huge problems for young people. An average of more than 1000 people have lost their jobs every week since 2009. Greeks are known for a willingness to converse with anyone and help people out wherever they can, but increases in suicides, attempted suicides, the use of anti-depressant medication and the need for psychiatric care are causing great concern in a country not used to such issues. For a country that had one of the lowest suicide rates in the world, experts estimate that Greece’s suicide rates have doubled in the past two years.

In the wake of the ongoing financial crisis, public fears over vandalism and violent crime appear to have risen dramatically, often in conjunction with increased concerns over illegal immigration and drug abuse. One government report estimated that drug use in Athens jumped from 7,400 in 2008 to 12,000 in 2009, coinciding with the first wave of the global financial crisis. Murders in Greece have more than doubled since 2006, with the annual figure rising from 83 to 175 in 2010.

On an average 40C day in summer, the streets of Athens are filled with homeless youth. One young man who looks like he hasn’t eaten in weeks lies on a doorstep, his head tilted back and mouth wide open while flies buzz around him in the scorching heat. The scene is more reminiscent of a malnourished beggar in an Ethiopian town than a busy street in this once thriving metropolis. Awakened from his drug induced comatose state, the young man looks at an offered bottle of water as though it is a foreign substance, mutters incoherently and collapses again. Not long after, a slightly healthier looking man grabs the water left at the beggar’s side and strolls away. This is what it has come to, one unfortunate man stealing from an even less fortunate soul; because in the struggle to survive there is no room for a code of ethics.

When the author attempted to find help, two local business people smiled sadly, shrugged and lamented that it was now a common occurrence in Athens. People die on the street because they are hungry, because they have nowhere else to go, and no one to help them. A girl working in a nearby cafe promises to keep an eye on him and call for help if he gets worse, but worse is hard to contemplate. The authorities it seems have larger problems to deal with then a young man at death’s door on a sidewalk.

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Dobbing in a liar

16 Thursday Aug 2012

Posted by Kate Brooks in All, Politics

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

australia, carbon tax, environment, julia gillard

Did you know that politicians lie?

Apparently they say things to the public that aren’t necessarily true in order to garner support. Sometimes they even espouse opinions that are not their own to make you vote for them. It appears that they can also exaggerate events and tell fabricated stories to get the public onside…

I’m not sure why people are suddenly so indignant about such revelations.

Julia Gillard doesn’t support gay marriage because she was brought up with traditional values.

Obama closed Guantanamo Bay within twelve months of coming to office and brought all detainees to trial.

John Howard protected us from those evil boat people who threw their children overboard.

George Bush liberated Iraq and saved the world from weapons of mass destruction.

Hilary Clinton ran for cover under the fire of bullets when she landed in Bosnia.

Her husband did not have sexual relations with that woman.

Of course with the benefit of hindsight (or as in the first example, common sense) we know that this is all a load of bs. According to the bible, the Atheist Gillard lives ‘in sin’ with her unmarried partner. Obama has been in office for almost a full term and there are currently more than a hundred prisoners still in Guantanamo. The rickety ship full of asylum seekers was falling apart and no one likes to stay on a rapidly sinking boat. We now know that the Republican Party was aware the likelihood of Saddam Hussein possessing weapons of mass destruction was minimal. Video footage shows Clinton strolling off her jet in Bosnia in 1996, and her husband left his DNA on Monica Lewinsky’s blue dress.

Ultimately politicians make statements based on increasing their popularity; because it’s popularity that gets them elected. But what is popular is not always right. That’s why we have the separation of powers; to provide balance and hold them to account, that’s why we need the media; the fourth arm of democracy- to let them know they’re being watched.

With time, the outrage of some of the Australian public over Gillard’s back flip on the carbon tax is likely to be filed away in history along with the above examples. In the short term however it appears that we will have to tolerate a desperate Tony Abbott’s fear mongering while he does everything that he can to terrify the Australian people they won’t be able to afford their fruit and veg.

As Gillard herself has repeatedly stated, had the 2010 election resulted in a majority parliament, we probably wouldn’t have a carbon tax. As much as most of us want to cringe at her excuses, the point is a valid one. There is no way she or anyone in the government could have foreseen the current make up of parliament when she stated her intention not to have a carbon tax. While we will probably never know entirely what her intentions were, there is little reason to doubt that had she won over more of the electorate, we would not be having this debate now.

When examined in this light, the prime minister going back on her word pales in comparison to some of the falsehoods told by leaders in recent Australian and global history. Indeed, John Howard’s GST was a much greater deliberate deception of the public.

I don’t know what was going through Julia Gillard’s head when she said there wouldn’t be a carbon tax. I don’t know if she deliberately misled the Australian people or if she really has been cornered into a situation where the choice is to ‘do nothing’ or make a seemingly unpopular decision to ‘take action’. I do know that after a few weeks of the carbon tax, Australia is still one of the wealthiest, most economically stable countries in the world. We have a low unemployment rate, and people generally rate their happiness levels higher than the rest of the world. I also have a fair amount of faith that none of this is likely to change anytime soon. Which makes Tony Abbott’s carrying on even more ridiculous. His cries that Gillard would not have won the election had people known about the carbon tax leads me to ask; does he think people prefer a man who is on the record as acknowledging that he can’t be taken on his word?

What I do know is that it shouldn’t come as a surprise that political figures often skew the truth for their own purposes, because they’ve been doing it for as long as we can remember, even if many of us choose to selectively forget.

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The Politics of Non Intervention

14 Tuesday Aug 2012

Posted by Kate Brooks in All, Politics

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

humanitarianism, intervention, middle east, syria, united nations, war

In what could be described as the understatement of the year, one observer at the recent Geneva meeting of the ‘powers that be’ noted that ”too much blood has been shed,” concerning the worsening crisis in Syria. Since the conflict began early last year, more than 100 000 refugees have poured over the borders of Jordan, Lebanon, Iraq and Turkey. More than 75 per cent of these are women and children. The longer the atrocities continue, the greater the risk it will spread throughout the Middle East. Already, Turkey, Saudi Arabia, Qatar and Iran are funding their proxies on the ground. But even if these countries only fight through their Syrian allies, the recent shooting down of a Turkish aircraft and mortar attacks spreading 20 kilometres across the Lebanese border demonstrate the danger of mistakes igniting a regional conflict.

It is not difficult to appreciate why NATO has thus far failed to notably intervene in Syria. With the US war weary from Iraq and Afghanistan and Europe holding onto economic stability by a thread, Syria presents a headache that no one wants to deal with. To add to this, Russian support has ensured Syria’s defence capabilities are significantly more sophisticated than Libya and Iraq. Given that the army has remained largely loyal to the President, any Western intervention will incur losses to the military, as well as a high civilian death toll. Not to mention the dramatic affect intervention will have on already tense international relations between the West and China and Russia. Fearful of losing any influence in the region, the two Security Council members have repeatedly stated that they will not support military engagement.

Despite the immense challenges involved in humanitarian intervention, the international community legally can and morally should intervene in Syria. The relatively recent examples of Rwanda and Darfur show that we are yet to learn from our failure to act to prevent wide scale killings. The United Nations Charter authorises the Security Council to use military force in confronting threats to global security where peaceful means have failed. In 2005, world leaders concluded that these threats include crimes against humanity, war crimes and ethnic cleansing under the ”responsibility to protect” doctrine. At close scrutiny, it is clear that Syria meets these requirements.

The rationale behind intervention must be to prevent crimes against humanity, not pursue ulterior motives such as resource grabbing. Considering the well documented atrocities being committed in Syria, the world’s humanitarian concerns are justified. Following this, military force must be a final and proportionate resort after peaceful options are exhausted. By his own admission, Kofi Annan’s peace plan is dead and political negotiations have failed. As such, only the minimum force necessary to stop the violence may be used. Intervention is not a licence for regime change; though, as in Libya, it becomes unavoidable if regimes continue to brutalise their own people. The difficulty and unpredictability lies in the fact that an intervention must have reasonable prospects of success. Any intervention must be ruthlessly examined by the international community to guarantee it does not exceed its mandate. As previously mentioned, Syria is sufficiently armed for a long conflict. The international community needs to determine what price is worth paying- and what we are prepared to live with as a result of both action and inaction. Most problematically, an intervention must be approved by the Security Council; this is not going to happen as China and Russia are certain to veto.

It now seems probable that the Assad regime will have to collapse before productive conversations on rebuilding a broken Syria can even begin. In Geneva, World powers failed to reach a consensus on calling for the removal of Assad, instead agreeing on a plan for a political transition which has little to no chance of effective implementation. It is further toothless time wasting such as this that allows Assad to continue with his stream of human rights abuses while the West looks on and promises stricter ‘observation’. In one of the most defiant acts against international law norms, the Red Cross confirmed that its attempts to aid civilians and evacuate the wounded from the besieged city of Homs had again failed when a rescue team was prevented from entering the worst hit areas. Towns with rebel strongholds have had electricity and water cut, and summary executions are now commonplace. How much more carnage must occur before someone decides that the “Never again” line so often thrown around but rarely acted upon must apply? If the Council does not intervene, governments of moral courage may go it alone. We have been willing to do this when oil revenues are at stake, to fail to do so over principles of humanity shows gross moral negligence. Sometimes, we have to pick a side, and the past has shown us that history is not kind when we sit by and do nothing. Humanitarianism cannot remain politically neutral in conflicts where dictators continuously target innocent civilians. Without United Nations backing, unilateral humanitarian intervention is illegal, but sometimes it’s right.

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There must be more to this Provincial life!

14 Tuesday Aug 2012

Posted by Kate Brooks in All, Travel

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Aix, France, holiday, Marseille, Provence, summer, vauclaire, wine

Provence is the superlative of all your Southern French dreams. The sky really is that blue, the food is as fresh and tasty as can be, and the people are as welcoming and hospitable as the everlasting sunlight that warms your skin. Easily accessible by TGV from Paris, Provence is only three hours away from the capital. Alternatively, one can hire a car and make the most of the French country side on route. Either way, no excursion to the south of France is complete without stopping in this idyllic region and getting lost in any one or other of the picturesque towns while exploring the unspoiled landscapes.

If Provence is a highlight of the country, than the city of Aix is the area’s treasure. Through this quaint town you can meander for hours; get lost in a free standing market, idle down a cobbled laneway ignorant of where it leads, or be lured by one of the amazing Provencal restaurants; surrounded by air so thick with enticing smells you just cannot help yourself- and wouldn’t if you could. This city is known for both a lively student atmosphere, and an overwhelming style and sophistication. Compact and easy to navigate by foot, you’ll find Aix with its 17th century architecture and open paved plazas a delight to visit. Indeed, the history and ambiance will leave you wanting to return.

Every summer Aix hosts its annual arts festival in July. Since 1948 spectators have been offered opera, theatre and concerts over a diverse variety of genres. With a now established international reputation for excellence, the festival is one of the most renowned in France. The 2012 Festival, running from July 5th-27th, heavily focuses on the power of Opera. Director Bernard Fouccroulle hopes that the experience will profoundly affect every spectator’s humanity, and no one observer will leave unchanged. Visitors can take advantage of several ticket packages in order to experience this musical/theatrical extravaganza.

If one needs a break from city culture, there are a dozen or so beautiful vineyards surrounding the city. There is no better circumstance under which to unwind after touring, then to indulge in some delectable wine tasting. And you will not find a more striking example of this than the Chateau de Vauclaire. Situated only 15km from Aix, the estate of Vauclaire consists of 120 hectares, 30 of which hold an expansive vineyard, right in the heart of Provence. The Sallier wine makers of Domaine de Vauclaire have taken advantage of the land’s natural assets to produce some of the best rich and subtle blends of red, white and rose across the country. Their award winning produce leaves no visitor dissatisfied and is sure to please the palate of the most fastidious critique. Having been passed down through the family for generations, you can be assured that the wine here is made with the greatest care and attention to detail possible.

The difference between the Salliers and other wine makers in France is evident in their story. Enlightened art collectors, they devoted themselves to winemaking with this same taste for refinement and excellence. From generation to generation, the family has improved their know-how and expanded their knowledge, encouraged by the growing potential of the wine market in Provence. The diversity of grape varieties within the vineyard reflects a long history of Mediterranean wine. It allows the Sallier family the freedom to compose with rich and subtle blends. Having spent a summer at Vauclaire, the author can attest to the domain’s spiritual atmosphere and healing surroundings. It is impossible to find fault with the vineyard’s location, ambiance or hosts. Ideal for a summer escape or winter sojourn; Vauclaire is perfect all year long.

So if you are pondering a European jaunt anytime soon, whether you are after sunshine, sightseeing, culture or culinary delights; look no further than the south of France. A few days in Provence will leave you refreshed, relaxed and planning your return trip. With dozens of villages worth a visit and exploration, the thumping beat of the streets of Marseille, France’s second largest city, and the overwhelming calm and sophistication of Aix; there is something in the Provincial region for everyone.

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Forever intrepid gypsy at heart. Lover of pasta, the ocean, yoga and red wine. Believer in human rights, international law and justice. Can't sing, spell or cook. Terrified of snakes and diets. Views are my own.
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